Sunday 29 December 2013

An African Christmas

Spending Christmas in Africa was strange and amazing all at once. When I came here I thought I would be sad that I wasn't at home, but it ended up just being weird because it didn't feel like Christmas at all. Not even on Christmas Day. I guess Christmas for me will always feel like our house in Cambridge, like our Christmas tree with no leaves, like eating a whole box of chocolates before lunchtime, like sausage rolls and tikihi, like impromptu games of cricket using apples as balls, like singing carols and like family. Mostly like family.

Here there was no family, so it didn't feel like Christmas, but I loved it all the same.

Christmas Day started out with going to Neema House to give the babies their morning snack at 8am and then watching Christmas music videos on the TV. Then it was back home to talk to my family briefly before all of us volunteers went to church. There are six of us here at the moment - Kelly and Betsy are from the United States and Bim, Stina and Lovisa are all from Sweden. 

Church was lovely, complete with carols (something I had missed about Christmas this year) and a short message about the three wise men and how it is never too late to come to Jesus.

After church we came back to Neema and fed the babies their lunch and then gave them a bath. I spent that time feeding Baby Maxine, who is three months old now and since she reached 6lbs last week, has been moved out of isolation into the small baby room. The babies had a bath earlier in the day than usual because we wanted to dress them up in Christmas outfits. They ended up looking very sweet!

Baby Maxine didn't want to be put down even though there was 18 babies that needed to be bathed!

Christmas clothes!
Photo credit: Stina Granfors

It took five people working as fast as we could to get 18 babies into place for the group photo.
Photo credit: Stina Granfors

Finally - all of them sitting down at the same time!
Photo credit: Stina Granfors

Michael, Angelous & Gloria
Photo credit: Stina Granfors

Photo credit: Stina Granfors

Sweet Maxine
Photo credit: Stina Granfors

Ebenezer
Photo credit: Stina Granfors

Once the babies were in bed it was time for Christmas lunch - buffet style which the nannies loved. Lunch was rice, chicken, beef, vegetables, cookies and soda. The chicken was very fresh - it had been given to Neema as a gift on Christmas Eve and was only killed on the morning of the lunch!

On Christmas Eve, Jackie and Rehema, two of the Neema nannies invited Kelly and I to go and visit their houses on Christmas Day. Recently we have had a lot of donations of clothes that are far too big for our babies at Neema, which we had set aside in a big box to take to Aston and his children. We picked out a couple of items for each of Jackie and Rehema's children and took them with us. It was so lovely to see how happy the children were with their new clothes and lollipops. Jackie and Rehema both said that all children are very happy on Christmas Day.

What Kelly and I didn't take into account was that at both houses they would want to feed us. We ate pilau, salad and fresh fruit and had soda at Jackie's house first. Benny, who is 4 and Jennifer, Jackie's 12-year-old house-girl put their new clothes on right away. Then they all came with us to Rehema's where we ate more pilau, had some cabbage and drank more soda.

Benny, Joyce, Freddy, Noel and Jennifer wearing their new clothes.

Jackie and Rehema with their children.


Jackie and Rehema and everyone was so happy. Jennifer was dancing to the radio and all the children skipped the whole way home.

I have been to several of the nannies homes since I have been here, but it is always a sobering experience. How I live here in Arusha is nothing like how the majority of Tanzanians live. It makes me wonder if I could do it. In theory I probably would say I could, but really? Walking to get water every day, never having enough food, going to bed when it gets dark because there is no electricity? I don't know.

When we made it back to the house it was time to cook and get the house ready for our fourth, final and biggest meal of Christmas. The new directors of Neema and their children came to eat with us and we all made food that was either from our country or that we would usually eat at Christmas time. I made lamingtons - I know, Australian rather than New Zealand, but I wasn't brave enough to try to make a pav!

We decorated the table and had a lovely meal. Altogether it was a lovely Christmas day, even if we did eat four Christmas dinners within 6 hours and even though it was a lot different from any I have ever had before!


Christmas dinner.

xoxo,
-Hannah



Sunday 22 December 2013

Maji Moto

A few weeks ago Kelly, Sydnee and I took the day off to go and visit a hot spring about two hours out of Arusha. We went with some local guys who regularly spend time volunteering at Neema House and it was a really nice day. I drove us there which was interesting due to the fact that the car we took is a Prado 4x4 and I had never driven a car that big before. Most of the main roads close to Arusha are sealed and easy to drive on, but to get to Maji Moto you have to go cross country after you turn off the main road. We hired a local piki piki driver to show us the way for the last 15km. It took over an hour to just go that short distance! The road was so rough that at some points I thought we would never be able to make it over the rocks, but thankfully we got there safely.

The water at Maji Moto, which literally means "hot water", was thankfully not hot at all after the long drive with no air conditioning. It was one of the most beautiful places that I've seen since I've been here. Crystal clear water with vines hanging down into a deep pool. The water reminded me a little bit of New Zealand as our country is filled with beautiful clear rivers and lakes. The main difference is that New Zealand is not filled with scary snakes and animals. I spent half the time I was in the water surveying the area for pythons, only to later find out that pythons don't even swim in fresh water. What can I say? The very few Africa related fears I have are completely irrational, including the one where I get shot while sitting by the window on a dala dala.

The water was absolutely beautiful and there was small fish that would come along and nibble at your feet. It made them very clean, but was also very ticklish!










General hilarity ensued when Kelly and I tried to get dressed after our swim behind a piece of plastic strung between two posts stuck into buckets. First two young boys swum down the stream behind us to see if they could take a peek. Then just when Kelly was dressing I accidentally tipped one of the posts over which then knocked the whole plastic shelter down, causing much shrieking and laughter. I laughed more that day than I had in months!

Martin, one of our local friends, drove when we got onto the main road and it was a hair-raising trip, to say the least! I eventually asked to take over as I wasn't entirely sure that we would make it home in one piece with the current driver. Apart from that though, it was a lovely day and a beautiful spot that I would definitely go back to if I got the chance.

xoxo,
-Hannah

Saturday 30 November 2013

Widows and Orphans


Every week now I go out to Aston Vision Orphanage and a couple of weeks ago Aston took us to visit his village, Ambreni Moivaro. Aston became chairman of the village 5 years ago and since then he has been working to try and improve the quality of life for the children and people of the village.

Aston wanted us to see the families of the children that attend his school and altogether we visited about a dozen different families. There are more and Aston said he could take us to visit them another day if we wanted. All of their stories are very similar – the mother is a widow with three or four or more children to look after. They all sleep on one bed or the children sleep on the bed and mama sleeps on the floor or on a skinny couch.

Other children live with their grandmothers, as both their parents are dead. Some of the children are disabled – we met four and there are two more that Aston supports. The first child appeared to have cerebral palsy. I don’t know about the rest.

Most of the houses are made of mud and sticks and have only one room. They all have the same problems – mama or bibi cannot work because she either has to look after the children or she is too old. This means that there is no money for food. Everything seems so inexpensive to us – the rent for their houses costs between 10,000 and 30,000 shillings a month ($7.65 - $22.90 NZ) and yet they have nothing. All of them are hungry and the majority of them need mattresses – either they have none to start with or there are too many people to fit on one so some of the family members have to sleep on the floor.

This house was probably the biggest and nicest that we visited and yet it only costs 30,000 shillings a month to rent. Inside lives Veronica, a widow whose husband died in an accident in 2007. Three children live with her, including Susannah who is 7-years-old and who has severe cerebral palsy. Veronica says that there is never enough food so often she doesn't eat, giving what she has to her children.

11-year-old Bilali is disabled and lives with his mama Zainabu. She is a widow with four children, one of whom lives at Aston's orphanage as she cannot provide for them all. A volunteer donated a bicycle for Mama with a special seat on the back for Bilali, which helps to make their life easier. The skinny bed that you can see in the background is where three children sleeps. Mama sleeps on a tiny couch off to the side.

Bilali and his siblings sit outside their house. The door on right belongs to the room that they rent. When we left Mama was cooking ugali over an open fire outside.

When we first went into this Maasai lady, Maria's, house Aston kept talking about her children. She looked so elderly that we kept looking at each other, thinking that surely he meant grandchildren. It turned out though that she is only 51-years-old and her youngest child is 7. Maria's husband died two months ago from a combination of typhoid, malaria and malnourishment and she has three children. They all live in the room on the right side of the picture. The dirt floor has flees that live in it which have given Maria some sort of parasitic infection in her toes.

This one-room house is home to Theresa, her brother and grandparents. Theresa is six-years-old and is severely disabled. Her Mama died two years ago in an accident.

Theresa, her brother and her Babu (grandfather) all sleep on a single small mattress. Bibi sleeps on a skinny couch. Babu was in the same accident that killed Theresa's mother and now he cannot walk without the aid of crutches and is unable to work to provide money for the family.

A volunteer kindly donated a stroller so that it is easier for Bibi to move Theresa. The other children in the photograph are Theresa's brother and cousins. The cousins live in the room next door.

These three children, Happiness, Prince and Dennis all live in the room on the left with their older sister, who is 23. Their parents are dead. When we went to visit, the sister had gone to market and nine-year-old Happiness was in charge of looking after her younger siblings. They have no bed so all four of them have to sleep on the mud floor.

This is the home of widow Happiness. She had three children, but one died three months ago. Her second son, Crispen, is on the left in the photo and is disabled. He spends his days at a school for disabled people where they learn to do basic household tasks. The third child is Kelvin, who lives at Aston Vision full time. He was born with bad eyes and the local doctors do not know how to help him.

These are the neighbouring rooms to Widow Happiness and Crispen's home.

Walking from house to house through the village was beautiful.


Aston and Betsy.

When we got back to Aston Vision we helped Aston serve the children their lunch of rice and beans.

Helena with her lunch.

Sharon, one of the children we met the first time we went to visit Aston.

Everything we saw that day was very sad. The people were very welcoming and friendly, but the majority appeared to be rather hopeless – like they’d been beaten down by life and were finding it hard to carry on. I guess I can see why that would be.

The thing that gives me hope is that by helping Aston and his children, we are helping these families as well.

xoxo,
Hannah

Saturday 16 November 2013

Oh My God


Two weeks ago today, my mother, friend Betsy and myself were driving home from an outing in Usa River, when we saw a sign that said “Aston Vision Orphanage”. Betsy and I had both heard of the orphanage before, but didn’t know much about it except that it was excessively poor. We decided to stop, thinking that there might be something that we could do to help then.

I know this may sound trite, but the people we met, what we saw at that orphanage, the brief time we spent there, is something that I will always consider to be a pivotal moment in my life. While we were there we met a young man, Aston, founder of the orphanage. This is his story.

Aston Simon was born 31 years ago in a Maasai family, where he was the eldest child of the first wife of his father. His father had six wives altogether and many children, five alone who were born to Aston’s mother. His upbringing was tragic – his father was an alcoholic who used to come home and beat Aston, saying that he could not go to school anymore, but must stay at home and herd the cows.

When Aston was still a young boy he ran away to live as a street child in Arusha. Eventually a soldier found him on the streets, took him in and welcomed him into his own family, giving him a home and an education. At the age of 23, Aston left the soldier’s family and went to work in the mines. It was here that he learned English and met some local Christian pastors who converted him to Christianity. The church he attended sent him to a university to study to be a mechanic and driver.

Six years ago, in 2007, he bought a plot of land in the village Ambreni Moivaro. At some point during this time he became the chairman of the village. He built a house for himself and for his birth parents on the 5 hectares that he had bought and planned to settle down there.

Then three years ago he went to the spring to collect water, a thirty-minute walk away from his home. When he got to the spring he found a box laying on the ground, a baby inside. Aston took the baby to the neighbours and people of the village but no one would claim her or take her in. He then took her to the police who said they would have to, “Give her to the white people,” meaning that a Western orphanage would be the best place for her. Aston refused, wanting the baby to grow up in her own culture, with her own people, and he kept her. He named her Angel.

Since then, Aston has collected 42 children who are either orphans or the children of widows who cannot support them. Currently there is only room for 10 children to live at the orphanage and they are taken care of by Aston and his sister, Jessica. Because there is no room for the other children, they have to stay with neighbours and relatives, often in places where there is no room for them. Many of the children have to sleep on the floor. All are hungry.

At the orphanage itself there is one small building, half of which is a little office, the other half of which is the sleeping room for all 10 children. There are four skinny bunk beds and the children sleep two to a bed. All ten of them are approximately three to seven years of age. Most of their ages are estimates. Next to the sleeping room is a tiny schoolroom with a mud floor. Boards are missing from the walls and roof, leaking constantly in the rainy season. Across the yard is a chicken shed, generously donated by volunteers from Belgium and the Netherlands. In two months time the chickens will start laying and Aston will be able to sell the eggs to make a little money to buy food for the children.

The window on the right is the "office", the centre window is the bedroom and the small window on the right is part of the schoolroom.

Back of the schoolroom.

Inside the schoolroom.

There is no money to pay a teacher, so the children can only have school when there is a volunteer there to teach them. 14 of the children have been sponsored to go to local schools. The other 28 spend their days at the orphanage, where they eat one hot meal a day. It costs $1000US to send a child to school for a year by the time you add together all their school fees, books, uniforms and the cost of transportation.

Aston’s mother and father live on the grounds and Mama and Jessica cook for the children. Most of the time there is not enough food and often there is none. Sometimes all the children eat is a meal of a paste made of flour and water. The cost to feed all the children for a month is only 500,000 shillings, about $350NZ. This would buy them rice and beans, sugar, flour and cooking oil, all of which could be bought at a local market, supporting the village and local economy.

Beautiful Angel - the spring baby.

Aston is the chairman of his village and as well as looking after the children, he helps to look after a large number of widows in the village. His hope is that these children will not just have safe water and enough food, but that they will be able to dream of a better future. He says his dream is to help children because he remembers his time as a street child and he doesn’t want anyone to have to live like that.

Right now though, the children need dormitories and bathrooms, beds to sleep in and food to eat. To build a bathroom block with two toilets and a shower room would cost $1500US. When they have dormitories, all 42 children will be able to live there. Before they can even think about building it though, they need to finish the retaining wall on the plot of land where the dormitory will go. This will cost them 300,000 shillings, about $210NZ.

That first time we visited, there were only two children at the orphanage – Sharon, who is four and Angel who now is five or six years old. The other eight children had gone with Aston’s sister to get water. The spring is half an hour away on foot and they take several children so they can bring back as much water as possible. After they bring the water back, it needs to be filtered before it is safe to drink. At the moment they have one water filter that was donated by a volunteer. At $50US each, they are hardly expensive and it would be incredibly beneficial if they had more than one, due to the fact that there are so many children.

It would cost $1000US to get pipes laid and water pumped in from the spring so the children don’t have to walk to get water. I don’t know about you, but the thought of living in a world where four-year-olds have to walk miles to find water, makes me feel sick.

Mum with Angel and Sharon.

Aston, Betsy and I with Angel and Sharon.

After we left the orphanage that first time, we spent the car ride back to Arusha in near silence, all of us trying not to cry at what we’d seen. We went back to Neema House and the first thing that I saw when I stepped inside was my little Angel, wearing a new green and pink floral onesie, her face clean and shiny from her bath. She ran to me, laughing, before the nannies took her away to eat her dinner. That night, and every night, she will go to bed in clean pyjamas and sleep under warm blankets, tucked away safe from mosquitoes. She will have a warm bottle, be kissed and cuddled and told that she’s loved and she will sleep peacefully until morning. Our babies are so loved and so lucky and so very, very blessed.

As I sit here at the table, writing in candlelight because the power is out, I am crying about it all over again. You hear about this world – people living in filth and poverty, children starving, everyone desperate to survive. You would think I would be getting used to it by now. I don’t think I ever will. What can we do? So little would do so much to help these people.

Our electricity is out and when it’s on our Internet is slow. Our beds are hard, our feet are dusty, and we can’t get the same foods as we can in our Western countries. We miss the comforts of home – take away pizza and high speed wifi. How very trivial our problems are!

Since that first time Betsy and I have been back to Aston Vision. We met the other children that live at the orphanage and took them bread and bananas, margarine, eggs, biscuits and lollipops for a treat. It was a drop in a bucket that will take more than a few groceries to fill.

And yet, the children are so happy – they ran towards us, shouting, “Teacher! Teacher!” They climbed on us and laughed as we blew bubbles and skipped rope with them. Quiet little Kelvin saved his biscuits in his pocket and after a while of sitting beside him, he put his hand in his pocket and pulled out a sticky piece of biscuit, giving me, someone he didn’t know, his treat.

My first time at Aston Vision made me think of Habbakuk, crying out to God when he sees the violence and corruption happening amongst his people. He says, “How long, O Lord, must I call for help, but you do not listen? Or cry out to you, “Violence!” but you do not save. Why do you make me look at injustice? Why do you tolerate wrong? Destruction and violence are before me; there is strife, and conflict abounds.”

And it made me think of the song, Oh My God, by Jars of Clay.

“Sometimes when I lose my grip, I wonder what to make of heaven
All the times I thought to reach up, all the times I had to give up
Babies underneath their beds, hospitals that cannot treat
All the wounds that money causes, all the comforts of cathedrals
All the cries of thirsty children, this is our inheritance
All the rage of watching mothers, this is our greatest offense
Oh my God, Oh my God, Oh my God.”

I found this song powerful even before I came here, but now that I have seen hospitals full of people, but not drugs to treat them all; since I’ve watched tiny children walk miles to fetch water; since I have understood that mothers do not abandon their babies because they do not love them, but rather so that they will have a better chance with someone else; my heart has the same cry as Habakkuk’s.

I would despair except for the fact that I know if my heart hurts for 42 hungry children, then how much more must God hurt. And at the end of Habbakuk’s book there is hope. "Though the fig tree does not bud and there are no grapes on the vines, though the olive crop fails and the fields produce no food, though there are no sheep in the pen and no cattle in the stalls, yet I will rejoice in the Lord, I will be joyful in God my Saviour. The Sovereign Lord is my strength; he makes my feet like the feet of a deer, he enables me to tread on the heights."

Tomorrow Betsy and I are going back to Aston Vision. Aston is taking us to the village to meet the other children and the families they live with. While I know that what we will see there will break my heart all over again, I am grateful that God has given me the chance to witness it.

Tonight, in this dark and quiet house, my candle burning low, I am thankful. Thankful for Aston who was given a dream and is doing everything he can to help these children. And thankful to God, who a long time ago, on a cross far away, put a plan in place to save us from all this.

xoxo,
-Hannah

Tuesday 29 October 2013

Oh Babies, How I Missed You

On the Saturday before last I flew to Zanzibar to have a holiday with my mum. She flew in the following day and we spent a week there before coming back to Arusha. We had an absolutely amazing holiday - it was a beautiful place and I loved it there. It's wonderful to see my mum again too.

What I didn't realise when I went there was just how much I would miss the babies. They have been my life the past four and a half months and there is almost never a day when I don't see them, even if it's just for a short time on my day off. 

We went out for dinner on the night we got back and then Mum and I went to Neema to say hello to the nannies and any babies that might still be awake - just Julius, although Ibrahim and Beulah woke up while we were there. The next morning was the big reunion - as soon as I walked in the door Angel and Angelous saw me and ran to the gate in their room. They were laughing because they had seen me and crying because they couldn't get to me fast enough as the gate was in the way. When I picked them both up they laughed and laughed. It was adorable. 

Mum got to meet all the babies that I talk about so much - Angel and Angelous, the triplets, Bahati and naughty little Ibrahim who took a liking to her straight away - as well as all the rest of them.

Beautiful Angel

Baraka has been feeling a bit under the weather so all he wanted today was lots of snuggles.

Angelous playing the "Where is Angelous?" game underneath my kanga.

Franki in the tunnel.

Babies drinking their milk before nap time.

Julius, Gian and Joyce enjoying their first taste of ice cream at Ibrahim's birthday party. 


It was lovely to have a holiday and a rest for a week, but it was also nice to come back and see all the babies.

xoxo,
-Hannah